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How should I support this large drywall patch?
The Next CEO of Stack OverflowHow do I cover large gaps in drywall?How do I keep drywall around a patch from crumbling?Can I glue a second layer of drywall?How to patch long strip on drywall?Large drywall patch: how to avoid bulging seams?Drywall Mesh Patch vs. Bulge? To remove or not to remove?How to fix this drywall job?Prep drywall before backsplashWhat's the best way to fix this horrible drywall patch job?Drywall patching using 3M Patch Plus Primer
after the installation of a new water heater and a relatively extensive plumbing fix, I wanted to save a buck trying to patch the drywall myself. It's the very first time I buy a piece of drywall or anything related to this activity. I re-created a map of the pipes on the new drywall using trilateration, then cut the drywall to match the existing, large hole, and cut it in a way that I could fit it.
The existing hole with plumbing:
The patch with holes for plumbing (this will be cut in a half going through the holes):
Poor picture (sorry) of the cut patch:
Dry fit of the "bottom" part of the patch:
Dry fit of the whole patch:
My question is: how much support should I install behind the drywall before I screw it to the metal studs, and start the operation with mud and all of that. I am really clueless, any advice will be appreciated.
plumbing drywall drywall-anchor patching-drywall
add a comment |
after the installation of a new water heater and a relatively extensive plumbing fix, I wanted to save a buck trying to patch the drywall myself. It's the very first time I buy a piece of drywall or anything related to this activity. I re-created a map of the pipes on the new drywall using trilateration, then cut the drywall to match the existing, large hole, and cut it in a way that I could fit it.
The existing hole with plumbing:
The patch with holes for plumbing (this will be cut in a half going through the holes):
Poor picture (sorry) of the cut patch:
Dry fit of the "bottom" part of the patch:
Dry fit of the whole patch:
My question is: how much support should I install behind the drywall before I screw it to the metal studs, and start the operation with mud and all of that. I am really clueless, any advice will be appreciated.
plumbing drywall drywall-anchor patching-drywall
9
Wow that's a pretty decent job for a first timer. I wish the drywallers would put in the same effort around my mechanical installs.
– Joe Fala
21 hours ago
2
OK well it took me a day and a half - most contractors do not have that time
– Alessio Sangalli
19 hours ago
This guy (“Vancouver Carpenter”) has some of the best drywall videos: youtube.com/channel/UCbZdXox6mKHdcT2QdVT-goQ
– rrauenza
9 hours ago
1
an electrical outlet so close to so many water pipes/valves kinda scares me... but I don't actually know if that's against electrical code
– unknownprotocol
6 hours ago
add a comment |
after the installation of a new water heater and a relatively extensive plumbing fix, I wanted to save a buck trying to patch the drywall myself. It's the very first time I buy a piece of drywall or anything related to this activity. I re-created a map of the pipes on the new drywall using trilateration, then cut the drywall to match the existing, large hole, and cut it in a way that I could fit it.
The existing hole with plumbing:
The patch with holes for plumbing (this will be cut in a half going through the holes):
Poor picture (sorry) of the cut patch:
Dry fit of the "bottom" part of the patch:
Dry fit of the whole patch:
My question is: how much support should I install behind the drywall before I screw it to the metal studs, and start the operation with mud and all of that. I am really clueless, any advice will be appreciated.
plumbing drywall drywall-anchor patching-drywall
after the installation of a new water heater and a relatively extensive plumbing fix, I wanted to save a buck trying to patch the drywall myself. It's the very first time I buy a piece of drywall or anything related to this activity. I re-created a map of the pipes on the new drywall using trilateration, then cut the drywall to match the existing, large hole, and cut it in a way that I could fit it.
The existing hole with plumbing:
The patch with holes for plumbing (this will be cut in a half going through the holes):
Poor picture (sorry) of the cut patch:
Dry fit of the "bottom" part of the patch:
Dry fit of the whole patch:
My question is: how much support should I install behind the drywall before I screw it to the metal studs, and start the operation with mud and all of that. I am really clueless, any advice will be appreciated.
plumbing drywall drywall-anchor patching-drywall
plumbing drywall drywall-anchor patching-drywall
edited 10 hours ago
Machavity
7,95611840
7,95611840
asked yesterday
Alessio SangalliAlessio Sangalli
13818
13818
9
Wow that's a pretty decent job for a first timer. I wish the drywallers would put in the same effort around my mechanical installs.
– Joe Fala
21 hours ago
2
OK well it took me a day and a half - most contractors do not have that time
– Alessio Sangalli
19 hours ago
This guy (“Vancouver Carpenter”) has some of the best drywall videos: youtube.com/channel/UCbZdXox6mKHdcT2QdVT-goQ
– rrauenza
9 hours ago
1
an electrical outlet so close to so many water pipes/valves kinda scares me... but I don't actually know if that's against electrical code
– unknownprotocol
6 hours ago
add a comment |
9
Wow that's a pretty decent job for a first timer. I wish the drywallers would put in the same effort around my mechanical installs.
– Joe Fala
21 hours ago
2
OK well it took me a day and a half - most contractors do not have that time
– Alessio Sangalli
19 hours ago
This guy (“Vancouver Carpenter”) has some of the best drywall videos: youtube.com/channel/UCbZdXox6mKHdcT2QdVT-goQ
– rrauenza
9 hours ago
1
an electrical outlet so close to so many water pipes/valves kinda scares me... but I don't actually know if that's against electrical code
– unknownprotocol
6 hours ago
9
9
Wow that's a pretty decent job for a first timer. I wish the drywallers would put in the same effort around my mechanical installs.
– Joe Fala
21 hours ago
Wow that's a pretty decent job for a first timer. I wish the drywallers would put in the same effort around my mechanical installs.
– Joe Fala
21 hours ago
2
2
OK well it took me a day and a half - most contractors do not have that time
– Alessio Sangalli
19 hours ago
OK well it took me a day and a half - most contractors do not have that time
– Alessio Sangalli
19 hours ago
This guy (“Vancouver Carpenter”) has some of the best drywall videos: youtube.com/channel/UCbZdXox6mKHdcT2QdVT-goQ
– rrauenza
9 hours ago
This guy (“Vancouver Carpenter”) has some of the best drywall videos: youtube.com/channel/UCbZdXox6mKHdcT2QdVT-goQ
– rrauenza
9 hours ago
1
1
an electrical outlet so close to so many water pipes/valves kinda scares me... but I don't actually know if that's against electrical code
– unknownprotocol
6 hours ago
an electrical outlet so close to so many water pipes/valves kinda scares me... but I don't actually know if that's against electrical code
– unknownprotocol
6 hours ago
add a comment |
6 Answers
6
active
oldest
votes
It's a matter of preference, but I would float scrap lumber backing at four locations:
- Down both sides
- Across the bottom between the two studs
- Across the between the two studs just below the plumbing penetrations
- Anywhere else that seems too flexy when you do a little press-testing
1/2" or thicker plywood and 1-by or 2-by lumber work well. This backing doesn't really need to be attached to the studs (doing so can make it difficult to keep everything flush), but should be fastened well to the surrounding drywall. Construction adhesive would reduce the number of screws necessary there.
Protip: If you don't have access to a dedicated screw gun (which is not the same as a drill, despite common usage of the term), these drywall screw setter bits are golden because they keep the screw from sinking too far into the drywall:
I would say this. If you feel this is a long term fix then when framing a basement why wouldn't people space the verticals 36-48" apart? Given your answer you could just use plywood backing in the gaps. I only use this technique on ceilings since they are unlikely to get bumped into. Any experienced drywaller would use this for small holes that need backing where the hole isn't big enough to add framing. No experienced drywaller would go out and do this technique on an opening this big. In 30 years of using drywallers never even seen it suggested.
– DMoore
3 hours ago
I've been doing this for 30.5 years. Never a crack.
– isherwood
3 hours ago
Wow let's slow clap here. Isherwood has been doing drywall for 30.5 years without a crack. Someone is not telling the truth or we need to call Guinness. Come on man if you say something like that how does anyone take your answers serious.
– DMoore
3 hours ago
add a comment |
I don't ever attach drywall unless it has attached backing on each side. To float the backing and have it come out solid and flush and not cause drilling issues is both a thing that needs to be practiced and it needs the appropriate access.
For something like this I would go to next stud for sure. Also I would build a little access box jutted out from the wall maybe 8" or so. Here is the deal if you float this and bump into the area it could crack - I hate working on something prone to failure especially in an area that has usage. A proper access box of maybe 20" tall by 8" out would allow you to service these turnoffs properly if there were issues without opening the whole wall up again. Also if you have to turn these off you are probably putting pressure and a good chance of damaging wall area behind it. I honestly have only seen this a handful of times in houses.
My answer:
- Remove drywall until you can go to studs - almost no extra work and much faster and long-term than floating. If you can't do this then add an extra stud - it does not need to go higher than hole. You can add two support blocks.
- Build an access box (2x2s) and attach across framing.
- Drywall access box and hole.
- Be glad you did it right.
Thank you for the insight. 1) Going to the next stud for me unfortunately is unthinkable because I would need to move the furnace to the left that has been there since 1972. On the right, I believe the next stud is after the corner - that is a task beyond my abilities. This is, unless I completely misunderstood what you mean there. 2) do you have an example of an access box? The 2x4's would protrude from the wall? All the pipes are fastener with proper straps very solidly and never touch the drywall.
– Alessio Sangalli
yesterday
2
I hate to argue, but cutting out all that extra drywall is much more work than zipping a couple screws into some rough-cut scrap lumber. I can't figure out what your concerns are even for a carpentry novice. About the only thing you can do wrong is to run the screws in too far, but you can always add more screws.
– isherwood
22 hours ago
@isherwood - I get what you are saying. But #1 even if done right that part of the wall is weak on a vertical - that cracks easy. #2 the novice might have issues making sure board is flush and straight to the floor. Tension on one of the sides will make it crack easier. You gave someone a shortcut that is fine but not something I would do with my home. I try to give people quality lasting answers.
– DMoore
4 hours ago
I've made hundreds of such patches in my own homes over the years. I've never seen one crack. (You realize that more than half of all joints span voids, right?) Flush with what? Just screw it tight to the existing drywall. (I'll try not to take offense at your implication that this is a hack, short-term solution. The fact is that it's often done to achieve flatter butt joints using a recess technique. :) )
– isherwood
4 hours ago
Not to be a jackass, but you might find this interesting.
– isherwood
4 hours ago
|
show 3 more comments
One option is to glue and screw plywood to the back of one piece of the plaster board, creating a ledge for the other piece to be glued and screwed to. Predrill into the ply to reduce the forced needed to get the screws started and use very sharp screws.
Do likewise around the hole where possible.
This will result in all edges being surported.
If you got enough depth wood can be used instead of ply.
Yeah I do not have much depth with the plumbing already taking most of the space, so thinner plywood is probably the way to go.
– Alessio Sangalli
22 hours ago
add a comment |
It appears to be supported by two studs. Unless you want to make a bigger patch (& hole) that goes halfway on to the next studs on either side, just screw it into the two studs and start mudding and taping.
Edit to add:
Leave about 1/8" (3 mm) gap, knife mud into it, embed tape into mud on the surface (paper tape actually makes a stronger joint, unless you are using "setting" mud rather than the usual drywall compound that dries) and mud over that until you are happy with the appearance, using progressively wider knives and knocking off any high points when dry, before applying the next coat.
OK but won't I risk that the patch, along the sides will be weak? Also what is the recommended clearance between the patch and the existing wall; I guess too much is not good but also there should be a minimum width or the mud won't penetrate and remain too superficial?
– Alessio Sangalli
yesterday
1
@AlessioSangalli This is a wall with plumbing penetrations, its not like its the middle of a wall in your formal dining room. You do run a risk of a linear crack appearing especially along the vertical edges. To help prevent this you need to use drywall tape along the edges, and for this application I would recommend drywall mesh vs regular drywall tape.
– Glen Yates
yesterday
1
I can surely accept a lower level of quality in this utility closet (that is anyway next to my kitchen and living room). However I have no idea what I am doing that is why I will lookup what drywall mesh and tape are.
– Alessio Sangalli
yesterday
1
Properly taped and mudded, there won't be an issue, because the tape & mud glue it all together, and it's ... non-structural anyway. Sure, you might find the edges of the patch while punching the wall, but in that case you are probably ripping it out to repair the plumbing, or just angry and punching holes in the wall, and in either case it does not matter at that point.
– Ecnerwal
22 hours ago
1
@AlessioSangalli, You should use drywall tape or mesh regardless of whether you put backing behind the drywall (unless you don't mind a small linear crack). But I am rethinking my recommendation of mesh tape, as with sufficient flex, I have actually seen the mesh rip, so regular paper tape may be the way to go, especially if the joint is not backed.
– Glen Yates
7 hours ago
add a comment |
If you're joining drywall, I've found a good rule of thumb is if it's not within 3" or so of a stud, you need something to attach to the drywall behind the drywall. That's what Isherwood is referencing in his answer. The idea is that, if something hits a section of drywall, you want something to reinforce it, or you'll be back patching a jagged hole.
Scrap lumber is great... if you have scrap lumber laying around. If you're not doing stuff like this on a frequent basis, you might not have any. If you don't, a good and cheap solution is to buy a pack of wood shims (typically found in the door and window section of your hardware store). Be sure to cut the narrow end off the shims if you go that route. You will need drywall screws for this as well.
The catch with screws is to not "over-drill" them. You want them to sink just below the surface of the drywall, but not drive straight through the drywall itself. Worse for you is you'll be doing this on a live setup. Hopefully you have a driver that drives slower the less you squeeze. Just take it slow and you'll do fine.
As for location, I would do 2 in the top right (where the cuts jog further out), and one vertically to the left of the pipes along your cutout.
Additional tip: draw lines on the wall where your studs and supports are. It will help you a great deal in hitting the supports.
add a comment |
Your patch looks too big for this, but drywall clips do exist and I’ve had good success with them. Here is one brand:
Walboard Tool 54-014 6 Count Drywall Repair Clips
These clip onto the perimeter, and then you screw them in. If you have a stud in the way, it can be a problem slipping them on.
add a comment |
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6 Answers
6
active
oldest
votes
6 Answers
6
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
It's a matter of preference, but I would float scrap lumber backing at four locations:
- Down both sides
- Across the bottom between the two studs
- Across the between the two studs just below the plumbing penetrations
- Anywhere else that seems too flexy when you do a little press-testing
1/2" or thicker plywood and 1-by or 2-by lumber work well. This backing doesn't really need to be attached to the studs (doing so can make it difficult to keep everything flush), but should be fastened well to the surrounding drywall. Construction adhesive would reduce the number of screws necessary there.
Protip: If you don't have access to a dedicated screw gun (which is not the same as a drill, despite common usage of the term), these drywall screw setter bits are golden because they keep the screw from sinking too far into the drywall:
I would say this. If you feel this is a long term fix then when framing a basement why wouldn't people space the verticals 36-48" apart? Given your answer you could just use plywood backing in the gaps. I only use this technique on ceilings since they are unlikely to get bumped into. Any experienced drywaller would use this for small holes that need backing where the hole isn't big enough to add framing. No experienced drywaller would go out and do this technique on an opening this big. In 30 years of using drywallers never even seen it suggested.
– DMoore
3 hours ago
I've been doing this for 30.5 years. Never a crack.
– isherwood
3 hours ago
Wow let's slow clap here. Isherwood has been doing drywall for 30.5 years without a crack. Someone is not telling the truth or we need to call Guinness. Come on man if you say something like that how does anyone take your answers serious.
– DMoore
3 hours ago
add a comment |
It's a matter of preference, but I would float scrap lumber backing at four locations:
- Down both sides
- Across the bottom between the two studs
- Across the between the two studs just below the plumbing penetrations
- Anywhere else that seems too flexy when you do a little press-testing
1/2" or thicker plywood and 1-by or 2-by lumber work well. This backing doesn't really need to be attached to the studs (doing so can make it difficult to keep everything flush), but should be fastened well to the surrounding drywall. Construction adhesive would reduce the number of screws necessary there.
Protip: If you don't have access to a dedicated screw gun (which is not the same as a drill, despite common usage of the term), these drywall screw setter bits are golden because they keep the screw from sinking too far into the drywall:
I would say this. If you feel this is a long term fix then when framing a basement why wouldn't people space the verticals 36-48" apart? Given your answer you could just use plywood backing in the gaps. I only use this technique on ceilings since they are unlikely to get bumped into. Any experienced drywaller would use this for small holes that need backing where the hole isn't big enough to add framing. No experienced drywaller would go out and do this technique on an opening this big. In 30 years of using drywallers never even seen it suggested.
– DMoore
3 hours ago
I've been doing this for 30.5 years. Never a crack.
– isherwood
3 hours ago
Wow let's slow clap here. Isherwood has been doing drywall for 30.5 years without a crack. Someone is not telling the truth or we need to call Guinness. Come on man if you say something like that how does anyone take your answers serious.
– DMoore
3 hours ago
add a comment |
It's a matter of preference, but I would float scrap lumber backing at four locations:
- Down both sides
- Across the bottom between the two studs
- Across the between the two studs just below the plumbing penetrations
- Anywhere else that seems too flexy when you do a little press-testing
1/2" or thicker plywood and 1-by or 2-by lumber work well. This backing doesn't really need to be attached to the studs (doing so can make it difficult to keep everything flush), but should be fastened well to the surrounding drywall. Construction adhesive would reduce the number of screws necessary there.
Protip: If you don't have access to a dedicated screw gun (which is not the same as a drill, despite common usage of the term), these drywall screw setter bits are golden because they keep the screw from sinking too far into the drywall:
It's a matter of preference, but I would float scrap lumber backing at four locations:
- Down both sides
- Across the bottom between the two studs
- Across the between the two studs just below the plumbing penetrations
- Anywhere else that seems too flexy when you do a little press-testing
1/2" or thicker plywood and 1-by or 2-by lumber work well. This backing doesn't really need to be attached to the studs (doing so can make it difficult to keep everything flush), but should be fastened well to the surrounding drywall. Construction adhesive would reduce the number of screws necessary there.
Protip: If you don't have access to a dedicated screw gun (which is not the same as a drill, despite common usage of the term), these drywall screw setter bits are golden because they keep the screw from sinking too far into the drywall:
edited 4 hours ago
Niall C.♦
19.7k1376120
19.7k1376120
answered yesterday
isherwoodisherwood
50.6k458128
50.6k458128
I would say this. If you feel this is a long term fix then when framing a basement why wouldn't people space the verticals 36-48" apart? Given your answer you could just use plywood backing in the gaps. I only use this technique on ceilings since they are unlikely to get bumped into. Any experienced drywaller would use this for small holes that need backing where the hole isn't big enough to add framing. No experienced drywaller would go out and do this technique on an opening this big. In 30 years of using drywallers never even seen it suggested.
– DMoore
3 hours ago
I've been doing this for 30.5 years. Never a crack.
– isherwood
3 hours ago
Wow let's slow clap here. Isherwood has been doing drywall for 30.5 years without a crack. Someone is not telling the truth or we need to call Guinness. Come on man if you say something like that how does anyone take your answers serious.
– DMoore
3 hours ago
add a comment |
I would say this. If you feel this is a long term fix then when framing a basement why wouldn't people space the verticals 36-48" apart? Given your answer you could just use plywood backing in the gaps. I only use this technique on ceilings since they are unlikely to get bumped into. Any experienced drywaller would use this for small holes that need backing where the hole isn't big enough to add framing. No experienced drywaller would go out and do this technique on an opening this big. In 30 years of using drywallers never even seen it suggested.
– DMoore
3 hours ago
I've been doing this for 30.5 years. Never a crack.
– isherwood
3 hours ago
Wow let's slow clap here. Isherwood has been doing drywall for 30.5 years without a crack. Someone is not telling the truth or we need to call Guinness. Come on man if you say something like that how does anyone take your answers serious.
– DMoore
3 hours ago
I would say this. If you feel this is a long term fix then when framing a basement why wouldn't people space the verticals 36-48" apart? Given your answer you could just use plywood backing in the gaps. I only use this technique on ceilings since they are unlikely to get bumped into. Any experienced drywaller would use this for small holes that need backing where the hole isn't big enough to add framing. No experienced drywaller would go out and do this technique on an opening this big. In 30 years of using drywallers never even seen it suggested.
– DMoore
3 hours ago
I would say this. If you feel this is a long term fix then when framing a basement why wouldn't people space the verticals 36-48" apart? Given your answer you could just use plywood backing in the gaps. I only use this technique on ceilings since they are unlikely to get bumped into. Any experienced drywaller would use this for small holes that need backing where the hole isn't big enough to add framing. No experienced drywaller would go out and do this technique on an opening this big. In 30 years of using drywallers never even seen it suggested.
– DMoore
3 hours ago
I've been doing this for 30.5 years. Never a crack.
– isherwood
3 hours ago
I've been doing this for 30.5 years. Never a crack.
– isherwood
3 hours ago
Wow let's slow clap here. Isherwood has been doing drywall for 30.5 years without a crack. Someone is not telling the truth or we need to call Guinness. Come on man if you say something like that how does anyone take your answers serious.
– DMoore
3 hours ago
Wow let's slow clap here. Isherwood has been doing drywall for 30.5 years without a crack. Someone is not telling the truth or we need to call Guinness. Come on man if you say something like that how does anyone take your answers serious.
– DMoore
3 hours ago
add a comment |
I don't ever attach drywall unless it has attached backing on each side. To float the backing and have it come out solid and flush and not cause drilling issues is both a thing that needs to be practiced and it needs the appropriate access.
For something like this I would go to next stud for sure. Also I would build a little access box jutted out from the wall maybe 8" or so. Here is the deal if you float this and bump into the area it could crack - I hate working on something prone to failure especially in an area that has usage. A proper access box of maybe 20" tall by 8" out would allow you to service these turnoffs properly if there were issues without opening the whole wall up again. Also if you have to turn these off you are probably putting pressure and a good chance of damaging wall area behind it. I honestly have only seen this a handful of times in houses.
My answer:
- Remove drywall until you can go to studs - almost no extra work and much faster and long-term than floating. If you can't do this then add an extra stud - it does not need to go higher than hole. You can add two support blocks.
- Build an access box (2x2s) and attach across framing.
- Drywall access box and hole.
- Be glad you did it right.
Thank you for the insight. 1) Going to the next stud for me unfortunately is unthinkable because I would need to move the furnace to the left that has been there since 1972. On the right, I believe the next stud is after the corner - that is a task beyond my abilities. This is, unless I completely misunderstood what you mean there. 2) do you have an example of an access box? The 2x4's would protrude from the wall? All the pipes are fastener with proper straps very solidly and never touch the drywall.
– Alessio Sangalli
yesterday
2
I hate to argue, but cutting out all that extra drywall is much more work than zipping a couple screws into some rough-cut scrap lumber. I can't figure out what your concerns are even for a carpentry novice. About the only thing you can do wrong is to run the screws in too far, but you can always add more screws.
– isherwood
22 hours ago
@isherwood - I get what you are saying. But #1 even if done right that part of the wall is weak on a vertical - that cracks easy. #2 the novice might have issues making sure board is flush and straight to the floor. Tension on one of the sides will make it crack easier. You gave someone a shortcut that is fine but not something I would do with my home. I try to give people quality lasting answers.
– DMoore
4 hours ago
I've made hundreds of such patches in my own homes over the years. I've never seen one crack. (You realize that more than half of all joints span voids, right?) Flush with what? Just screw it tight to the existing drywall. (I'll try not to take offense at your implication that this is a hack, short-term solution. The fact is that it's often done to achieve flatter butt joints using a recess technique. :) )
– isherwood
4 hours ago
Not to be a jackass, but you might find this interesting.
– isherwood
4 hours ago
|
show 3 more comments
I don't ever attach drywall unless it has attached backing on each side. To float the backing and have it come out solid and flush and not cause drilling issues is both a thing that needs to be practiced and it needs the appropriate access.
For something like this I would go to next stud for sure. Also I would build a little access box jutted out from the wall maybe 8" or so. Here is the deal if you float this and bump into the area it could crack - I hate working on something prone to failure especially in an area that has usage. A proper access box of maybe 20" tall by 8" out would allow you to service these turnoffs properly if there were issues without opening the whole wall up again. Also if you have to turn these off you are probably putting pressure and a good chance of damaging wall area behind it. I honestly have only seen this a handful of times in houses.
My answer:
- Remove drywall until you can go to studs - almost no extra work and much faster and long-term than floating. If you can't do this then add an extra stud - it does not need to go higher than hole. You can add two support blocks.
- Build an access box (2x2s) and attach across framing.
- Drywall access box and hole.
- Be glad you did it right.
Thank you for the insight. 1) Going to the next stud for me unfortunately is unthinkable because I would need to move the furnace to the left that has been there since 1972. On the right, I believe the next stud is after the corner - that is a task beyond my abilities. This is, unless I completely misunderstood what you mean there. 2) do you have an example of an access box? The 2x4's would protrude from the wall? All the pipes are fastener with proper straps very solidly and never touch the drywall.
– Alessio Sangalli
yesterday
2
I hate to argue, but cutting out all that extra drywall is much more work than zipping a couple screws into some rough-cut scrap lumber. I can't figure out what your concerns are even for a carpentry novice. About the only thing you can do wrong is to run the screws in too far, but you can always add more screws.
– isherwood
22 hours ago
@isherwood - I get what you are saying. But #1 even if done right that part of the wall is weak on a vertical - that cracks easy. #2 the novice might have issues making sure board is flush and straight to the floor. Tension on one of the sides will make it crack easier. You gave someone a shortcut that is fine but not something I would do with my home. I try to give people quality lasting answers.
– DMoore
4 hours ago
I've made hundreds of such patches in my own homes over the years. I've never seen one crack. (You realize that more than half of all joints span voids, right?) Flush with what? Just screw it tight to the existing drywall. (I'll try not to take offense at your implication that this is a hack, short-term solution. The fact is that it's often done to achieve flatter butt joints using a recess technique. :) )
– isherwood
4 hours ago
Not to be a jackass, but you might find this interesting.
– isherwood
4 hours ago
|
show 3 more comments
I don't ever attach drywall unless it has attached backing on each side. To float the backing and have it come out solid and flush and not cause drilling issues is both a thing that needs to be practiced and it needs the appropriate access.
For something like this I would go to next stud for sure. Also I would build a little access box jutted out from the wall maybe 8" or so. Here is the deal if you float this and bump into the area it could crack - I hate working on something prone to failure especially in an area that has usage. A proper access box of maybe 20" tall by 8" out would allow you to service these turnoffs properly if there were issues without opening the whole wall up again. Also if you have to turn these off you are probably putting pressure and a good chance of damaging wall area behind it. I honestly have only seen this a handful of times in houses.
My answer:
- Remove drywall until you can go to studs - almost no extra work and much faster and long-term than floating. If you can't do this then add an extra stud - it does not need to go higher than hole. You can add two support blocks.
- Build an access box (2x2s) and attach across framing.
- Drywall access box and hole.
- Be glad you did it right.
I don't ever attach drywall unless it has attached backing on each side. To float the backing and have it come out solid and flush and not cause drilling issues is both a thing that needs to be practiced and it needs the appropriate access.
For something like this I would go to next stud for sure. Also I would build a little access box jutted out from the wall maybe 8" or so. Here is the deal if you float this and bump into the area it could crack - I hate working on something prone to failure especially in an area that has usage. A proper access box of maybe 20" tall by 8" out would allow you to service these turnoffs properly if there were issues without opening the whole wall up again. Also if you have to turn these off you are probably putting pressure and a good chance of damaging wall area behind it. I honestly have only seen this a handful of times in houses.
My answer:
- Remove drywall until you can go to studs - almost no extra work and much faster and long-term than floating. If you can't do this then add an extra stud - it does not need to go higher than hole. You can add two support blocks.
- Build an access box (2x2s) and attach across framing.
- Drywall access box and hole.
- Be glad you did it right.
edited 19 hours ago
answered yesterday
DMooreDMoore
29k1352121
29k1352121
Thank you for the insight. 1) Going to the next stud for me unfortunately is unthinkable because I would need to move the furnace to the left that has been there since 1972. On the right, I believe the next stud is after the corner - that is a task beyond my abilities. This is, unless I completely misunderstood what you mean there. 2) do you have an example of an access box? The 2x4's would protrude from the wall? All the pipes are fastener with proper straps very solidly and never touch the drywall.
– Alessio Sangalli
yesterday
2
I hate to argue, but cutting out all that extra drywall is much more work than zipping a couple screws into some rough-cut scrap lumber. I can't figure out what your concerns are even for a carpentry novice. About the only thing you can do wrong is to run the screws in too far, but you can always add more screws.
– isherwood
22 hours ago
@isherwood - I get what you are saying. But #1 even if done right that part of the wall is weak on a vertical - that cracks easy. #2 the novice might have issues making sure board is flush and straight to the floor. Tension on one of the sides will make it crack easier. You gave someone a shortcut that is fine but not something I would do with my home. I try to give people quality lasting answers.
– DMoore
4 hours ago
I've made hundreds of such patches in my own homes over the years. I've never seen one crack. (You realize that more than half of all joints span voids, right?) Flush with what? Just screw it tight to the existing drywall. (I'll try not to take offense at your implication that this is a hack, short-term solution. The fact is that it's often done to achieve flatter butt joints using a recess technique. :) )
– isherwood
4 hours ago
Not to be a jackass, but you might find this interesting.
– isherwood
4 hours ago
|
show 3 more comments
Thank you for the insight. 1) Going to the next stud for me unfortunately is unthinkable because I would need to move the furnace to the left that has been there since 1972. On the right, I believe the next stud is after the corner - that is a task beyond my abilities. This is, unless I completely misunderstood what you mean there. 2) do you have an example of an access box? The 2x4's would protrude from the wall? All the pipes are fastener with proper straps very solidly and never touch the drywall.
– Alessio Sangalli
yesterday
2
I hate to argue, but cutting out all that extra drywall is much more work than zipping a couple screws into some rough-cut scrap lumber. I can't figure out what your concerns are even for a carpentry novice. About the only thing you can do wrong is to run the screws in too far, but you can always add more screws.
– isherwood
22 hours ago
@isherwood - I get what you are saying. But #1 even if done right that part of the wall is weak on a vertical - that cracks easy. #2 the novice might have issues making sure board is flush and straight to the floor. Tension on one of the sides will make it crack easier. You gave someone a shortcut that is fine but not something I would do with my home. I try to give people quality lasting answers.
– DMoore
4 hours ago
I've made hundreds of such patches in my own homes over the years. I've never seen one crack. (You realize that more than half of all joints span voids, right?) Flush with what? Just screw it tight to the existing drywall. (I'll try not to take offense at your implication that this is a hack, short-term solution. The fact is that it's often done to achieve flatter butt joints using a recess technique. :) )
– isherwood
4 hours ago
Not to be a jackass, but you might find this interesting.
– isherwood
4 hours ago
Thank you for the insight. 1) Going to the next stud for me unfortunately is unthinkable because I would need to move the furnace to the left that has been there since 1972. On the right, I believe the next stud is after the corner - that is a task beyond my abilities. This is, unless I completely misunderstood what you mean there. 2) do you have an example of an access box? The 2x4's would protrude from the wall? All the pipes are fastener with proper straps very solidly and never touch the drywall.
– Alessio Sangalli
yesterday
Thank you for the insight. 1) Going to the next stud for me unfortunately is unthinkable because I would need to move the furnace to the left that has been there since 1972. On the right, I believe the next stud is after the corner - that is a task beyond my abilities. This is, unless I completely misunderstood what you mean there. 2) do you have an example of an access box? The 2x4's would protrude from the wall? All the pipes are fastener with proper straps very solidly and never touch the drywall.
– Alessio Sangalli
yesterday
2
2
I hate to argue, but cutting out all that extra drywall is much more work than zipping a couple screws into some rough-cut scrap lumber. I can't figure out what your concerns are even for a carpentry novice. About the only thing you can do wrong is to run the screws in too far, but you can always add more screws.
– isherwood
22 hours ago
I hate to argue, but cutting out all that extra drywall is much more work than zipping a couple screws into some rough-cut scrap lumber. I can't figure out what your concerns are even for a carpentry novice. About the only thing you can do wrong is to run the screws in too far, but you can always add more screws.
– isherwood
22 hours ago
@isherwood - I get what you are saying. But #1 even if done right that part of the wall is weak on a vertical - that cracks easy. #2 the novice might have issues making sure board is flush and straight to the floor. Tension on one of the sides will make it crack easier. You gave someone a shortcut that is fine but not something I would do with my home. I try to give people quality lasting answers.
– DMoore
4 hours ago
@isherwood - I get what you are saying. But #1 even if done right that part of the wall is weak on a vertical - that cracks easy. #2 the novice might have issues making sure board is flush and straight to the floor. Tension on one of the sides will make it crack easier. You gave someone a shortcut that is fine but not something I would do with my home. I try to give people quality lasting answers.
– DMoore
4 hours ago
I've made hundreds of such patches in my own homes over the years. I've never seen one crack. (You realize that more than half of all joints span voids, right?) Flush with what? Just screw it tight to the existing drywall. (I'll try not to take offense at your implication that this is a hack, short-term solution. The fact is that it's often done to achieve flatter butt joints using a recess technique. :) )
– isherwood
4 hours ago
I've made hundreds of such patches in my own homes over the years. I've never seen one crack. (You realize that more than half of all joints span voids, right?) Flush with what? Just screw it tight to the existing drywall. (I'll try not to take offense at your implication that this is a hack, short-term solution. The fact is that it's often done to achieve flatter butt joints using a recess technique. :) )
– isherwood
4 hours ago
Not to be a jackass, but you might find this interesting.
– isherwood
4 hours ago
Not to be a jackass, but you might find this interesting.
– isherwood
4 hours ago
|
show 3 more comments
One option is to glue and screw plywood to the back of one piece of the plaster board, creating a ledge for the other piece to be glued and screwed to. Predrill into the ply to reduce the forced needed to get the screws started and use very sharp screws.
Do likewise around the hole where possible.
This will result in all edges being surported.
If you got enough depth wood can be used instead of ply.
Yeah I do not have much depth with the plumbing already taking most of the space, so thinner plywood is probably the way to go.
– Alessio Sangalli
22 hours ago
add a comment |
One option is to glue and screw plywood to the back of one piece of the plaster board, creating a ledge for the other piece to be glued and screwed to. Predrill into the ply to reduce the forced needed to get the screws started and use very sharp screws.
Do likewise around the hole where possible.
This will result in all edges being surported.
If you got enough depth wood can be used instead of ply.
Yeah I do not have much depth with the plumbing already taking most of the space, so thinner plywood is probably the way to go.
– Alessio Sangalli
22 hours ago
add a comment |
One option is to glue and screw plywood to the back of one piece of the plaster board, creating a ledge for the other piece to be glued and screwed to. Predrill into the ply to reduce the forced needed to get the screws started and use very sharp screws.
Do likewise around the hole where possible.
This will result in all edges being surported.
If you got enough depth wood can be used instead of ply.
One option is to glue and screw plywood to the back of one piece of the plaster board, creating a ledge for the other piece to be glued and screwed to. Predrill into the ply to reduce the forced needed to get the screws started and use very sharp screws.
Do likewise around the hole where possible.
This will result in all edges being surported.
If you got enough depth wood can be used instead of ply.
answered 23 hours ago
WalkerWalker
3,881155178
3,881155178
Yeah I do not have much depth with the plumbing already taking most of the space, so thinner plywood is probably the way to go.
– Alessio Sangalli
22 hours ago
add a comment |
Yeah I do not have much depth with the plumbing already taking most of the space, so thinner plywood is probably the way to go.
– Alessio Sangalli
22 hours ago
Yeah I do not have much depth with the plumbing already taking most of the space, so thinner plywood is probably the way to go.
– Alessio Sangalli
22 hours ago
Yeah I do not have much depth with the plumbing already taking most of the space, so thinner plywood is probably the way to go.
– Alessio Sangalli
22 hours ago
add a comment |
It appears to be supported by two studs. Unless you want to make a bigger patch (& hole) that goes halfway on to the next studs on either side, just screw it into the two studs and start mudding and taping.
Edit to add:
Leave about 1/8" (3 mm) gap, knife mud into it, embed tape into mud on the surface (paper tape actually makes a stronger joint, unless you are using "setting" mud rather than the usual drywall compound that dries) and mud over that until you are happy with the appearance, using progressively wider knives and knocking off any high points when dry, before applying the next coat.
OK but won't I risk that the patch, along the sides will be weak? Also what is the recommended clearance between the patch and the existing wall; I guess too much is not good but also there should be a minimum width or the mud won't penetrate and remain too superficial?
– Alessio Sangalli
yesterday
1
@AlessioSangalli This is a wall with plumbing penetrations, its not like its the middle of a wall in your formal dining room. You do run a risk of a linear crack appearing especially along the vertical edges. To help prevent this you need to use drywall tape along the edges, and for this application I would recommend drywall mesh vs regular drywall tape.
– Glen Yates
yesterday
1
I can surely accept a lower level of quality in this utility closet (that is anyway next to my kitchen and living room). However I have no idea what I am doing that is why I will lookup what drywall mesh and tape are.
– Alessio Sangalli
yesterday
1
Properly taped and mudded, there won't be an issue, because the tape & mud glue it all together, and it's ... non-structural anyway. Sure, you might find the edges of the patch while punching the wall, but in that case you are probably ripping it out to repair the plumbing, or just angry and punching holes in the wall, and in either case it does not matter at that point.
– Ecnerwal
22 hours ago
1
@AlessioSangalli, You should use drywall tape or mesh regardless of whether you put backing behind the drywall (unless you don't mind a small linear crack). But I am rethinking my recommendation of mesh tape, as with sufficient flex, I have actually seen the mesh rip, so regular paper tape may be the way to go, especially if the joint is not backed.
– Glen Yates
7 hours ago
add a comment |
It appears to be supported by two studs. Unless you want to make a bigger patch (& hole) that goes halfway on to the next studs on either side, just screw it into the two studs and start mudding and taping.
Edit to add:
Leave about 1/8" (3 mm) gap, knife mud into it, embed tape into mud on the surface (paper tape actually makes a stronger joint, unless you are using "setting" mud rather than the usual drywall compound that dries) and mud over that until you are happy with the appearance, using progressively wider knives and knocking off any high points when dry, before applying the next coat.
OK but won't I risk that the patch, along the sides will be weak? Also what is the recommended clearance between the patch and the existing wall; I guess too much is not good but also there should be a minimum width or the mud won't penetrate and remain too superficial?
– Alessio Sangalli
yesterday
1
@AlessioSangalli This is a wall with plumbing penetrations, its not like its the middle of a wall in your formal dining room. You do run a risk of a linear crack appearing especially along the vertical edges. To help prevent this you need to use drywall tape along the edges, and for this application I would recommend drywall mesh vs regular drywall tape.
– Glen Yates
yesterday
1
I can surely accept a lower level of quality in this utility closet (that is anyway next to my kitchen and living room). However I have no idea what I am doing that is why I will lookup what drywall mesh and tape are.
– Alessio Sangalli
yesterday
1
Properly taped and mudded, there won't be an issue, because the tape & mud glue it all together, and it's ... non-structural anyway. Sure, you might find the edges of the patch while punching the wall, but in that case you are probably ripping it out to repair the plumbing, or just angry and punching holes in the wall, and in either case it does not matter at that point.
– Ecnerwal
22 hours ago
1
@AlessioSangalli, You should use drywall tape or mesh regardless of whether you put backing behind the drywall (unless you don't mind a small linear crack). But I am rethinking my recommendation of mesh tape, as with sufficient flex, I have actually seen the mesh rip, so regular paper tape may be the way to go, especially if the joint is not backed.
– Glen Yates
7 hours ago
add a comment |
It appears to be supported by two studs. Unless you want to make a bigger patch (& hole) that goes halfway on to the next studs on either side, just screw it into the two studs and start mudding and taping.
Edit to add:
Leave about 1/8" (3 mm) gap, knife mud into it, embed tape into mud on the surface (paper tape actually makes a stronger joint, unless you are using "setting" mud rather than the usual drywall compound that dries) and mud over that until you are happy with the appearance, using progressively wider knives and knocking off any high points when dry, before applying the next coat.
It appears to be supported by two studs. Unless you want to make a bigger patch (& hole) that goes halfway on to the next studs on either side, just screw it into the two studs and start mudding and taping.
Edit to add:
Leave about 1/8" (3 mm) gap, knife mud into it, embed tape into mud on the surface (paper tape actually makes a stronger joint, unless you are using "setting" mud rather than the usual drywall compound that dries) and mud over that until you are happy with the appearance, using progressively wider knives and knocking off any high points when dry, before applying the next coat.
edited 21 hours ago
answered yesterday
EcnerwalEcnerwal
55.1k23990
55.1k23990
OK but won't I risk that the patch, along the sides will be weak? Also what is the recommended clearance between the patch and the existing wall; I guess too much is not good but also there should be a minimum width or the mud won't penetrate and remain too superficial?
– Alessio Sangalli
yesterday
1
@AlessioSangalli This is a wall with plumbing penetrations, its not like its the middle of a wall in your formal dining room. You do run a risk of a linear crack appearing especially along the vertical edges. To help prevent this you need to use drywall tape along the edges, and for this application I would recommend drywall mesh vs regular drywall tape.
– Glen Yates
yesterday
1
I can surely accept a lower level of quality in this utility closet (that is anyway next to my kitchen and living room). However I have no idea what I am doing that is why I will lookup what drywall mesh and tape are.
– Alessio Sangalli
yesterday
1
Properly taped and mudded, there won't be an issue, because the tape & mud glue it all together, and it's ... non-structural anyway. Sure, you might find the edges of the patch while punching the wall, but in that case you are probably ripping it out to repair the plumbing, or just angry and punching holes in the wall, and in either case it does not matter at that point.
– Ecnerwal
22 hours ago
1
@AlessioSangalli, You should use drywall tape or mesh regardless of whether you put backing behind the drywall (unless you don't mind a small linear crack). But I am rethinking my recommendation of mesh tape, as with sufficient flex, I have actually seen the mesh rip, so regular paper tape may be the way to go, especially if the joint is not backed.
– Glen Yates
7 hours ago
add a comment |
OK but won't I risk that the patch, along the sides will be weak? Also what is the recommended clearance between the patch and the existing wall; I guess too much is not good but also there should be a minimum width or the mud won't penetrate and remain too superficial?
– Alessio Sangalli
yesterday
1
@AlessioSangalli This is a wall with plumbing penetrations, its not like its the middle of a wall in your formal dining room. You do run a risk of a linear crack appearing especially along the vertical edges. To help prevent this you need to use drywall tape along the edges, and for this application I would recommend drywall mesh vs regular drywall tape.
– Glen Yates
yesterday
1
I can surely accept a lower level of quality in this utility closet (that is anyway next to my kitchen and living room). However I have no idea what I am doing that is why I will lookup what drywall mesh and tape are.
– Alessio Sangalli
yesterday
1
Properly taped and mudded, there won't be an issue, because the tape & mud glue it all together, and it's ... non-structural anyway. Sure, you might find the edges of the patch while punching the wall, but in that case you are probably ripping it out to repair the plumbing, or just angry and punching holes in the wall, and in either case it does not matter at that point.
– Ecnerwal
22 hours ago
1
@AlessioSangalli, You should use drywall tape or mesh regardless of whether you put backing behind the drywall (unless you don't mind a small linear crack). But I am rethinking my recommendation of mesh tape, as with sufficient flex, I have actually seen the mesh rip, so regular paper tape may be the way to go, especially if the joint is not backed.
– Glen Yates
7 hours ago
OK but won't I risk that the patch, along the sides will be weak? Also what is the recommended clearance between the patch and the existing wall; I guess too much is not good but also there should be a minimum width or the mud won't penetrate and remain too superficial?
– Alessio Sangalli
yesterday
OK but won't I risk that the patch, along the sides will be weak? Also what is the recommended clearance between the patch and the existing wall; I guess too much is not good but also there should be a minimum width or the mud won't penetrate and remain too superficial?
– Alessio Sangalli
yesterday
1
1
@AlessioSangalli This is a wall with plumbing penetrations, its not like its the middle of a wall in your formal dining room. You do run a risk of a linear crack appearing especially along the vertical edges. To help prevent this you need to use drywall tape along the edges, and for this application I would recommend drywall mesh vs regular drywall tape.
– Glen Yates
yesterday
@AlessioSangalli This is a wall with plumbing penetrations, its not like its the middle of a wall in your formal dining room. You do run a risk of a linear crack appearing especially along the vertical edges. To help prevent this you need to use drywall tape along the edges, and for this application I would recommend drywall mesh vs regular drywall tape.
– Glen Yates
yesterday
1
1
I can surely accept a lower level of quality in this utility closet (that is anyway next to my kitchen and living room). However I have no idea what I am doing that is why I will lookup what drywall mesh and tape are.
– Alessio Sangalli
yesterday
I can surely accept a lower level of quality in this utility closet (that is anyway next to my kitchen and living room). However I have no idea what I am doing that is why I will lookup what drywall mesh and tape are.
– Alessio Sangalli
yesterday
1
1
Properly taped and mudded, there won't be an issue, because the tape & mud glue it all together, and it's ... non-structural anyway. Sure, you might find the edges of the patch while punching the wall, but in that case you are probably ripping it out to repair the plumbing, or just angry and punching holes in the wall, and in either case it does not matter at that point.
– Ecnerwal
22 hours ago
Properly taped and mudded, there won't be an issue, because the tape & mud glue it all together, and it's ... non-structural anyway. Sure, you might find the edges of the patch while punching the wall, but in that case you are probably ripping it out to repair the plumbing, or just angry and punching holes in the wall, and in either case it does not matter at that point.
– Ecnerwal
22 hours ago
1
1
@AlessioSangalli, You should use drywall tape or mesh regardless of whether you put backing behind the drywall (unless you don't mind a small linear crack). But I am rethinking my recommendation of mesh tape, as with sufficient flex, I have actually seen the mesh rip, so regular paper tape may be the way to go, especially if the joint is not backed.
– Glen Yates
7 hours ago
@AlessioSangalli, You should use drywall tape or mesh regardless of whether you put backing behind the drywall (unless you don't mind a small linear crack). But I am rethinking my recommendation of mesh tape, as with sufficient flex, I have actually seen the mesh rip, so regular paper tape may be the way to go, especially if the joint is not backed.
– Glen Yates
7 hours ago
add a comment |
If you're joining drywall, I've found a good rule of thumb is if it's not within 3" or so of a stud, you need something to attach to the drywall behind the drywall. That's what Isherwood is referencing in his answer. The idea is that, if something hits a section of drywall, you want something to reinforce it, or you'll be back patching a jagged hole.
Scrap lumber is great... if you have scrap lumber laying around. If you're not doing stuff like this on a frequent basis, you might not have any. If you don't, a good and cheap solution is to buy a pack of wood shims (typically found in the door and window section of your hardware store). Be sure to cut the narrow end off the shims if you go that route. You will need drywall screws for this as well.
The catch with screws is to not "over-drill" them. You want them to sink just below the surface of the drywall, but not drive straight through the drywall itself. Worse for you is you'll be doing this on a live setup. Hopefully you have a driver that drives slower the less you squeeze. Just take it slow and you'll do fine.
As for location, I would do 2 in the top right (where the cuts jog further out), and one vertically to the left of the pipes along your cutout.
Additional tip: draw lines on the wall where your studs and supports are. It will help you a great deal in hitting the supports.
add a comment |
If you're joining drywall, I've found a good rule of thumb is if it's not within 3" or so of a stud, you need something to attach to the drywall behind the drywall. That's what Isherwood is referencing in his answer. The idea is that, if something hits a section of drywall, you want something to reinforce it, or you'll be back patching a jagged hole.
Scrap lumber is great... if you have scrap lumber laying around. If you're not doing stuff like this on a frequent basis, you might not have any. If you don't, a good and cheap solution is to buy a pack of wood shims (typically found in the door and window section of your hardware store). Be sure to cut the narrow end off the shims if you go that route. You will need drywall screws for this as well.
The catch with screws is to not "over-drill" them. You want them to sink just below the surface of the drywall, but not drive straight through the drywall itself. Worse for you is you'll be doing this on a live setup. Hopefully you have a driver that drives slower the less you squeeze. Just take it slow and you'll do fine.
As for location, I would do 2 in the top right (where the cuts jog further out), and one vertically to the left of the pipes along your cutout.
Additional tip: draw lines on the wall where your studs and supports are. It will help you a great deal in hitting the supports.
add a comment |
If you're joining drywall, I've found a good rule of thumb is if it's not within 3" or so of a stud, you need something to attach to the drywall behind the drywall. That's what Isherwood is referencing in his answer. The idea is that, if something hits a section of drywall, you want something to reinforce it, or you'll be back patching a jagged hole.
Scrap lumber is great... if you have scrap lumber laying around. If you're not doing stuff like this on a frequent basis, you might not have any. If you don't, a good and cheap solution is to buy a pack of wood shims (typically found in the door and window section of your hardware store). Be sure to cut the narrow end off the shims if you go that route. You will need drywall screws for this as well.
The catch with screws is to not "over-drill" them. You want them to sink just below the surface of the drywall, but not drive straight through the drywall itself. Worse for you is you'll be doing this on a live setup. Hopefully you have a driver that drives slower the less you squeeze. Just take it slow and you'll do fine.
As for location, I would do 2 in the top right (where the cuts jog further out), and one vertically to the left of the pipes along your cutout.
Additional tip: draw lines on the wall where your studs and supports are. It will help you a great deal in hitting the supports.
If you're joining drywall, I've found a good rule of thumb is if it's not within 3" or so of a stud, you need something to attach to the drywall behind the drywall. That's what Isherwood is referencing in his answer. The idea is that, if something hits a section of drywall, you want something to reinforce it, or you'll be back patching a jagged hole.
Scrap lumber is great... if you have scrap lumber laying around. If you're not doing stuff like this on a frequent basis, you might not have any. If you don't, a good and cheap solution is to buy a pack of wood shims (typically found in the door and window section of your hardware store). Be sure to cut the narrow end off the shims if you go that route. You will need drywall screws for this as well.
The catch with screws is to not "over-drill" them. You want them to sink just below the surface of the drywall, but not drive straight through the drywall itself. Worse for you is you'll be doing this on a live setup. Hopefully you have a driver that drives slower the less you squeeze. Just take it slow and you'll do fine.
As for location, I would do 2 in the top right (where the cuts jog further out), and one vertically to the left of the pipes along your cutout.
Additional tip: draw lines on the wall where your studs and supports are. It will help you a great deal in hitting the supports.
answered 9 hours ago
MachavityMachavity
7,95611840
7,95611840
add a comment |
add a comment |
Your patch looks too big for this, but drywall clips do exist and I’ve had good success with them. Here is one brand:
Walboard Tool 54-014 6 Count Drywall Repair Clips
These clip onto the perimeter, and then you screw them in. If you have a stud in the way, it can be a problem slipping them on.
add a comment |
Your patch looks too big for this, but drywall clips do exist and I’ve had good success with them. Here is one brand:
Walboard Tool 54-014 6 Count Drywall Repair Clips
These clip onto the perimeter, and then you screw them in. If you have a stud in the way, it can be a problem slipping them on.
add a comment |
Your patch looks too big for this, but drywall clips do exist and I’ve had good success with them. Here is one brand:
Walboard Tool 54-014 6 Count Drywall Repair Clips
These clip onto the perimeter, and then you screw them in. If you have a stud in the way, it can be a problem slipping them on.
Your patch looks too big for this, but drywall clips do exist and I’ve had good success with them. Here is one brand:
Walboard Tool 54-014 6 Count Drywall Repair Clips
These clip onto the perimeter, and then you screw them in. If you have a stud in the way, it can be a problem slipping them on.
edited 4 hours ago
isherwood
50.6k458128
50.6k458128
answered 22 hours ago
rrauenzarrauenza
1629
1629
add a comment |
add a comment |
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9
Wow that's a pretty decent job for a first timer. I wish the drywallers would put in the same effort around my mechanical installs.
– Joe Fala
21 hours ago
2
OK well it took me a day and a half - most contractors do not have that time
– Alessio Sangalli
19 hours ago
This guy (“Vancouver Carpenter”) has some of the best drywall videos: youtube.com/channel/UCbZdXox6mKHdcT2QdVT-goQ
– rrauenza
9 hours ago
1
an electrical outlet so close to so many water pipes/valves kinda scares me... but I don't actually know if that's against electrical code
– unknownprotocol
6 hours ago