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How To Repair Ripped Off Solder Pad On PCB


How do I solder this tiny (0.5mm pitch) MSOP10?How to design high-current through hole solder connection to large planesPCB has strange looking pads, how do I solder them without impacting nearby surface mount components?Eagle configure autorouter to solder components (except vias) only on bottom layer of double sided PCBHow to solder QFN-16 with a central pad component to proto-board?Low temperature solderPCB solder mask inconsistencyHow to repair ripped off solder pad3x2 solder pad connectortesting no leads packages for pin to PCB pad connectivity






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10












$begingroup$


I was trying to flash OpenWrt onto my BT HH5 wireless router and it involves soldering wires to very tiny balls of solder, which in the guides I've been following are referred to as pads. I've tried putting a small amount of solder in the little caveat hole but it doesn't stay in place. I known this would have been produced in a factory by a machine but is there any way I can repair the broken pad?



first image



second image




UPDATE



I've put a 1p coin in the corner for a scale comparison to show how small the pads really are. The blue circles represent the pad I have been referring to.



Scale of the PCB



As there is a hole wear the pad was, is there nothing I can use to refill the hole? I knows this sounds stupid but is there a conductive glue that the solder can stick to?



I've been using a battery powered soldering iron, but should I be using a temperature controlled iron with a low temperature and maybe using a smaller head on the iron?



N.B I only usually solder leads for audio equipment so moving down to micro PCB components isn't too much for my hand in terms of keeping it steady, but the fact that I think I need to invest a decent soldering station possibly?










share|improve this question









New contributor




willowen100 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.







$endgroup$











  • $begingroup$
    Is the missing pad a via ? In that case, what's on the other side to solder upon? Else, this means that some track used to go to that pad, so you can connect on those. You should use some glue when you have checked your work is done and functional to avoid similar problem in the future.
    $endgroup$
    – xryl669
    Apr 2 at 13:59











  • $begingroup$
    I remember during my first ever experiment with soldering small pitch components on newly manufactured PCBs. I burned out pad an routing path due to high temperature setting. I always keep soldering iron temperature settings within 200C since then.
    $endgroup$
    – Prasan Dutt
    Apr 2 at 14:00


















10












$begingroup$


I was trying to flash OpenWrt onto my BT HH5 wireless router and it involves soldering wires to very tiny balls of solder, which in the guides I've been following are referred to as pads. I've tried putting a small amount of solder in the little caveat hole but it doesn't stay in place. I known this would have been produced in a factory by a machine but is there any way I can repair the broken pad?



first image



second image




UPDATE



I've put a 1p coin in the corner for a scale comparison to show how small the pads really are. The blue circles represent the pad I have been referring to.



Scale of the PCB



As there is a hole wear the pad was, is there nothing I can use to refill the hole? I knows this sounds stupid but is there a conductive glue that the solder can stick to?



I've been using a battery powered soldering iron, but should I be using a temperature controlled iron with a low temperature and maybe using a smaller head on the iron?



N.B I only usually solder leads for audio equipment so moving down to micro PCB components isn't too much for my hand in terms of keeping it steady, but the fact that I think I need to invest a decent soldering station possibly?










share|improve this question









New contributor




willowen100 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.







$endgroup$











  • $begingroup$
    Is the missing pad a via ? In that case, what's on the other side to solder upon? Else, this means that some track used to go to that pad, so you can connect on those. You should use some glue when you have checked your work is done and functional to avoid similar problem in the future.
    $endgroup$
    – xryl669
    Apr 2 at 13:59











  • $begingroup$
    I remember during my first ever experiment with soldering small pitch components on newly manufactured PCBs. I burned out pad an routing path due to high temperature setting. I always keep soldering iron temperature settings within 200C since then.
    $endgroup$
    – Prasan Dutt
    Apr 2 at 14:00














10












10








10


2



$begingroup$


I was trying to flash OpenWrt onto my BT HH5 wireless router and it involves soldering wires to very tiny balls of solder, which in the guides I've been following are referred to as pads. I've tried putting a small amount of solder in the little caveat hole but it doesn't stay in place. I known this would have been produced in a factory by a machine but is there any way I can repair the broken pad?



first image



second image




UPDATE



I've put a 1p coin in the corner for a scale comparison to show how small the pads really are. The blue circles represent the pad I have been referring to.



Scale of the PCB



As there is a hole wear the pad was, is there nothing I can use to refill the hole? I knows this sounds stupid but is there a conductive glue that the solder can stick to?



I've been using a battery powered soldering iron, but should I be using a temperature controlled iron with a low temperature and maybe using a smaller head on the iron?



N.B I only usually solder leads for audio equipment so moving down to micro PCB components isn't too much for my hand in terms of keeping it steady, but the fact that I think I need to invest a decent soldering station possibly?










share|improve this question









New contributor




willowen100 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.







$endgroup$




I was trying to flash OpenWrt onto my BT HH5 wireless router and it involves soldering wires to very tiny balls of solder, which in the guides I've been following are referred to as pads. I've tried putting a small amount of solder in the little caveat hole but it doesn't stay in place. I known this would have been produced in a factory by a machine but is there any way I can repair the broken pad?



first image



second image




UPDATE



I've put a 1p coin in the corner for a scale comparison to show how small the pads really are. The blue circles represent the pad I have been referring to.



Scale of the PCB



As there is a hole wear the pad was, is there nothing I can use to refill the hole? I knows this sounds stupid but is there a conductive glue that the solder can stick to?



I've been using a battery powered soldering iron, but should I be using a temperature controlled iron with a low temperature and maybe using a smaller head on the iron?



N.B I only usually solder leads for audio equipment so moving down to micro PCB components isn't too much for my hand in terms of keeping it steady, but the fact that I think I need to invest a decent soldering station possibly?







pcb soldering






share|improve this question









New contributor




willowen100 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











share|improve this question









New contributor




willowen100 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 2 days ago









SamGibson

11.7k41739




11.7k41739






New contributor




willowen100 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









asked Apr 2 at 7:51









willowen100willowen100

514




514




New contributor




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Check out our Code of Conduct.





New contributor





willowen100 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.






willowen100 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











  • $begingroup$
    Is the missing pad a via ? In that case, what's on the other side to solder upon? Else, this means that some track used to go to that pad, so you can connect on those. You should use some glue when you have checked your work is done and functional to avoid similar problem in the future.
    $endgroup$
    – xryl669
    Apr 2 at 13:59











  • $begingroup$
    I remember during my first ever experiment with soldering small pitch components on newly manufactured PCBs. I burned out pad an routing path due to high temperature setting. I always keep soldering iron temperature settings within 200C since then.
    $endgroup$
    – Prasan Dutt
    Apr 2 at 14:00

















  • $begingroup$
    Is the missing pad a via ? In that case, what's on the other side to solder upon? Else, this means that some track used to go to that pad, so you can connect on those. You should use some glue when you have checked your work is done and functional to avoid similar problem in the future.
    $endgroup$
    – xryl669
    Apr 2 at 13:59











  • $begingroup$
    I remember during my first ever experiment with soldering small pitch components on newly manufactured PCBs. I burned out pad an routing path due to high temperature setting. I always keep soldering iron temperature settings within 200C since then.
    $endgroup$
    – Prasan Dutt
    Apr 2 at 14:00
















$begingroup$
Is the missing pad a via ? In that case, what's on the other side to solder upon? Else, this means that some track used to go to that pad, so you can connect on those. You should use some glue when you have checked your work is done and functional to avoid similar problem in the future.
$endgroup$
– xryl669
Apr 2 at 13:59





$begingroup$
Is the missing pad a via ? In that case, what's on the other side to solder upon? Else, this means that some track used to go to that pad, so you can connect on those. You should use some glue when you have checked your work is done and functional to avoid similar problem in the future.
$endgroup$
– xryl669
Apr 2 at 13:59













$begingroup$
I remember during my first ever experiment with soldering small pitch components on newly manufactured PCBs. I burned out pad an routing path due to high temperature setting. I always keep soldering iron temperature settings within 200C since then.
$endgroup$
– Prasan Dutt
Apr 2 at 14:00





$begingroup$
I remember during my first ever experiment with soldering small pitch components on newly manufactured PCBs. I burned out pad an routing path due to high temperature setting. I always keep soldering iron temperature settings within 200C since then.
$endgroup$
– Prasan Dutt
Apr 2 at 14:00











2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes


















10












$begingroup$

One thing I have tried and works, but requires good precision is the following:



Drill small hole near the ripped pad and insert a piece of copper. Twist the ends of the copper so that they form 2 loops on both ends of the board. Then solder it to the track and on top of that solder any component that was there.



If the pcb has mask or paint, scrape them off. If it is a 4 board layer, the above technique is doable, but the piece of copper must be insulated so that it does not short-circuits the 2 mid layers.



Here are some pictures, in which we managed to fix the destroyed "via", but the technique is the same for destroyed pads.



enter image description here



enter image description here






share|improve this answer











$endgroup$




















    6












    $begingroup$

    It's hard to be sure with all the flux, but it looks an awful lot like that pad connected to the via just below it (circled); you can see the clearance in the surrounding plane where the track ran.



    enter image description here



    First thing to do is clean up the area with a cotton-bud dipped in IPA (or acetone, probably if you don't have any IPA to hand). Do it very carefully, as it'll be easy to snag one of the other pads with solder sticking up and rip that off too, especially if it's been overheated.



    You should then be able to see evidence of the track going from the missing test-pad to the via (it'll probably look like a brown line).



    If you decide to solder onto the via, you'll need to (with a round-bladed scalpel), scrape the green solder-resist off the top of the via, until you see bare copper. Then you can solder your wire to this.



    Aside: It's a good idea, if you can, to solder to these pads etc. with very thin enamelled wire, which can be tacked down somewhere with hot glue, etc, and then solder the wires to your programmer onto those. You're much less likely to rip pads off.



    I would caution against drilling the board, unless as an absolute last resort.






    share|improve this answer











    $endgroup$













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      2 Answers
      2






      active

      oldest

      votes








      2 Answers
      2






      active

      oldest

      votes









      active

      oldest

      votes






      active

      oldest

      votes









      10












      $begingroup$

      One thing I have tried and works, but requires good precision is the following:



      Drill small hole near the ripped pad and insert a piece of copper. Twist the ends of the copper so that they form 2 loops on both ends of the board. Then solder it to the track and on top of that solder any component that was there.



      If the pcb has mask or paint, scrape them off. If it is a 4 board layer, the above technique is doable, but the piece of copper must be insulated so that it does not short-circuits the 2 mid layers.



      Here are some pictures, in which we managed to fix the destroyed "via", but the technique is the same for destroyed pads.



      enter image description here



      enter image description here






      share|improve this answer











      $endgroup$

















        10












        $begingroup$

        One thing I have tried and works, but requires good precision is the following:



        Drill small hole near the ripped pad and insert a piece of copper. Twist the ends of the copper so that they form 2 loops on both ends of the board. Then solder it to the track and on top of that solder any component that was there.



        If the pcb has mask or paint, scrape them off. If it is a 4 board layer, the above technique is doable, but the piece of copper must be insulated so that it does not short-circuits the 2 mid layers.



        Here are some pictures, in which we managed to fix the destroyed "via", but the technique is the same for destroyed pads.



        enter image description here



        enter image description here






        share|improve this answer











        $endgroup$















          10












          10








          10





          $begingroup$

          One thing I have tried and works, but requires good precision is the following:



          Drill small hole near the ripped pad and insert a piece of copper. Twist the ends of the copper so that they form 2 loops on both ends of the board. Then solder it to the track and on top of that solder any component that was there.



          If the pcb has mask or paint, scrape them off. If it is a 4 board layer, the above technique is doable, but the piece of copper must be insulated so that it does not short-circuits the 2 mid layers.



          Here are some pictures, in which we managed to fix the destroyed "via", but the technique is the same for destroyed pads.



          enter image description here



          enter image description here






          share|improve this answer











          $endgroup$



          One thing I have tried and works, but requires good precision is the following:



          Drill small hole near the ripped pad and insert a piece of copper. Twist the ends of the copper so that they form 2 loops on both ends of the board. Then solder it to the track and on top of that solder any component that was there.



          If the pcb has mask or paint, scrape them off. If it is a 4 board layer, the above technique is doable, but the piece of copper must be insulated so that it does not short-circuits the 2 mid layers.



          Here are some pictures, in which we managed to fix the destroyed "via", but the technique is the same for destroyed pads.



          enter image description here



          enter image description here







          share|improve this answer














          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer








          edited Apr 2 at 9:09

























          answered Apr 2 at 8:06









          thecethece

          439212




          439212























              6












              $begingroup$

              It's hard to be sure with all the flux, but it looks an awful lot like that pad connected to the via just below it (circled); you can see the clearance in the surrounding plane where the track ran.



              enter image description here



              First thing to do is clean up the area with a cotton-bud dipped in IPA (or acetone, probably if you don't have any IPA to hand). Do it very carefully, as it'll be easy to snag one of the other pads with solder sticking up and rip that off too, especially if it's been overheated.



              You should then be able to see evidence of the track going from the missing test-pad to the via (it'll probably look like a brown line).



              If you decide to solder onto the via, you'll need to (with a round-bladed scalpel), scrape the green solder-resist off the top of the via, until you see bare copper. Then you can solder your wire to this.



              Aside: It's a good idea, if you can, to solder to these pads etc. with very thin enamelled wire, which can be tacked down somewhere with hot glue, etc, and then solder the wires to your programmer onto those. You're much less likely to rip pads off.



              I would caution against drilling the board, unless as an absolute last resort.






              share|improve this answer











              $endgroup$

















                6












                $begingroup$

                It's hard to be sure with all the flux, but it looks an awful lot like that pad connected to the via just below it (circled); you can see the clearance in the surrounding plane where the track ran.



                enter image description here



                First thing to do is clean up the area with a cotton-bud dipped in IPA (or acetone, probably if you don't have any IPA to hand). Do it very carefully, as it'll be easy to snag one of the other pads with solder sticking up and rip that off too, especially if it's been overheated.



                You should then be able to see evidence of the track going from the missing test-pad to the via (it'll probably look like a brown line).



                If you decide to solder onto the via, you'll need to (with a round-bladed scalpel), scrape the green solder-resist off the top of the via, until you see bare copper. Then you can solder your wire to this.



                Aside: It's a good idea, if you can, to solder to these pads etc. with very thin enamelled wire, which can be tacked down somewhere with hot glue, etc, and then solder the wires to your programmer onto those. You're much less likely to rip pads off.



                I would caution against drilling the board, unless as an absolute last resort.






                share|improve this answer











                $endgroup$















                  6












                  6








                  6





                  $begingroup$

                  It's hard to be sure with all the flux, but it looks an awful lot like that pad connected to the via just below it (circled); you can see the clearance in the surrounding plane where the track ran.



                  enter image description here



                  First thing to do is clean up the area with a cotton-bud dipped in IPA (or acetone, probably if you don't have any IPA to hand). Do it very carefully, as it'll be easy to snag one of the other pads with solder sticking up and rip that off too, especially if it's been overheated.



                  You should then be able to see evidence of the track going from the missing test-pad to the via (it'll probably look like a brown line).



                  If you decide to solder onto the via, you'll need to (with a round-bladed scalpel), scrape the green solder-resist off the top of the via, until you see bare copper. Then you can solder your wire to this.



                  Aside: It's a good idea, if you can, to solder to these pads etc. with very thin enamelled wire, which can be tacked down somewhere with hot glue, etc, and then solder the wires to your programmer onto those. You're much less likely to rip pads off.



                  I would caution against drilling the board, unless as an absolute last resort.






                  share|improve this answer











                  $endgroup$



                  It's hard to be sure with all the flux, but it looks an awful lot like that pad connected to the via just below it (circled); you can see the clearance in the surrounding plane where the track ran.



                  enter image description here



                  First thing to do is clean up the area with a cotton-bud dipped in IPA (or acetone, probably if you don't have any IPA to hand). Do it very carefully, as it'll be easy to snag one of the other pads with solder sticking up and rip that off too, especially if it's been overheated.



                  You should then be able to see evidence of the track going from the missing test-pad to the via (it'll probably look like a brown line).



                  If you decide to solder onto the via, you'll need to (with a round-bladed scalpel), scrape the green solder-resist off the top of the via, until you see bare copper. Then you can solder your wire to this.



                  Aside: It's a good idea, if you can, to solder to these pads etc. with very thin enamelled wire, which can be tacked down somewhere with hot glue, etc, and then solder the wires to your programmer onto those. You're much less likely to rip pads off.



                  I would caution against drilling the board, unless as an absolute last resort.







                  share|improve this answer














                  share|improve this answer



                  share|improve this answer








                  edited 2 days ago

























                  answered Apr 2 at 11:56









                  SiHaSiHa

                  1705




                  1705




















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                      Romeo and Juliet ContentsCharactersSynopsisSourcesDate and textThemes and motifsCriticism and interpretationLegacyScene by sceneSee alsoNotes and referencesSourcesExternal linksNavigation menu"Consumer Price Index (estimate) 1800–"10.2307/28710160037-3222287101610.1093/res/II.5.31910.2307/45967845967810.2307/2869925286992510.1525/jams.1982.35.3.03a00050"Dada Masilo: South African dancer who breaks the rules"10.1093/res/os-XV.57.1610.2307/28680942868094"Sweet Sorrow: Mann-Korman's Romeo and Juliet Closes Sept. 5 at MN's Ordway"the original10.2307/45957745957710.1017/CCOL0521570476.009"Ram Leela box office collections hit massive Rs 100 crore, pulverises prediction"Archived"Broadway Revival of Romeo and Juliet, Starring Orlando Bloom and Condola Rashad, Will Close Dec. 8"Archived10.1075/jhp.7.1.04hon"Wherefore art thou, Romeo? To make us laugh at Navy Pier"the original10.1093/gmo/9781561592630.article.O006772"Ram-leela Review Roundup: Critics Hail Film as Best Adaptation of Romeo and Juliet"Archived10.2307/31946310047-77293194631"Romeo and Juliet get Twitter treatment""Juliet's Nurse by Lois Leveen""Romeo and Juliet: Orlando Bloom's Broadway Debut Released in Theaters for Valentine's Day"Archived"Romeo and Juliet Has No Balcony"10.1093/gmo/9781561592630.article.O00778110.2307/2867423286742310.1076/enst.82.2.115.959510.1080/00138380601042675"A plague o' both your houses: error in GCSE exam paper forces apology""Juliet of the Five O'Clock Shadow, and Other Wonders"10.2307/33912430027-4321339124310.2307/28487440038-7134284874410.2307/29123140149-661129123144728341M"Weekender Guide: Shakespeare on The Drive""balcony"UK public library membership"romeo"UK public library membership10.1017/CCOL9780521844291"Post-Zionist Critique on Israel and the Palestinians Part III: Popular Culture"10.2307/25379071533-86140377-919X2537907"Capulets and Montagues: UK exam board admit mixing names up in Romeo and Juliet paper"Istoria Novellamente Ritrovata di Due Nobili Amanti2027/mdp.390150822329610820-750X"GCSE exam error: Board accidentally rewrites Shakespeare"10.2307/29176390149-66112917639"Exam board apologises after error in English GCSE paper which confused characters in Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet""From Mariotto and Ganozza to Romeo and Guilietta: Metamorphoses of a Renaissance Tale"10.2307/37323537323510.2307/2867455286745510.2307/28678912867891"10 Questions for Taylor Swift"10.2307/28680922868092"Haymarket Theatre""The Zeffirelli Way: Revealing Talk by Florentine Director""Michael Smuin: 1938-2007 / Prolific dance director had showy career"The Life and Art of Edwin BoothRomeo and JulietRomeo and JulietRomeo and JulietRomeo and JulietEasy Read Romeo and JulietRomeo and Julieteeecb12003684p(data)4099369-3n8211610759dbe00d-a9e2-41a3-b2c1-977dd692899302814385X313670221313670221